C & C globetrotting around the world…

We drove through the Prahova valley and arrived in Brasov in the late afternoon. Brasov is Cecilia’s hometown and she always loves to come back. She feels a certain affection to her city, although she left when she was 9 years old. The city is very beautiful and she has many fond memories and good friends here. Brasov is situated in the middle of the country, in Transylvania, surrounded by the Carpathian Mountains and like most cities, towns and villages in Transylvania it has a Romanian (Brasov), a Hungarian (Brasso) and a German (Kronstadt) name.

The first attested mention of Brașov is Terra Saxonum de Barasu (“Saxon Land of Baras”) in a 1252 document. The German name Kronstadt means “Crown City” and is reflected in the city’s coat of arms as well as in its Medieval Latin name, Corona. The two names of the city, Kronstadt and Corona, were used simultaneously in the Middle Ages.

The oldest traces of human activity and settlements in Brașov date back to the Neolithic age (about 9500 BCE). Traces of Dacian citadels, as well as Roman-style constructions have been found nearby. German colonists known as the Transylvanian Saxons played a decisive role in Brașov’s development. These Germans were invited by King Géza II of Hungary to develop towns, build mines, and cultivate the land of Transylvania in the 12th century. The settlers came primarily from the Rhineland, Flanders, and the Moselle region (the region around Trier). Germans living in Brașov were mainly involved in trade and crafts. The location of the city at the intersection of trade routes linking the Ottoman Empire and Western Europe, together with certain tax exemptions, allowed Saxon merchants to obtain considerable wealth and exert a strong political influence. They contributed a great deal to the architectural flavor of the city. Fortifications around the city were erected and continually expanded, with several towers maintained by different craftsmen’s guilds, according to medieval custom. All towers and 2 city gates are still in existence today.

We were very happy to see Katinka (Cecilia’s kindergarden friend) and Istvan again after almost 2 years. This week-end happens to be “Zilele Brasovului” (Brasov Days), so we watched the fireworks from our guesthouse in the old town. Later we went for dinner at “Bucatarul Vesel” (“The Happy Cook”), a restaurant with good homey food.

On the following day, we watched the “Junii Brasovului”, a 300-horse procession held on the first Sunday after the Orthodox Easter through Schei and the Old City. “Junii Brasovului” are composed of 7 groups of horse riders (each with their special costumes) to celebrate the Dacian ritual of the triumph of life over death and the beginning of spring. Katinka and Istvan joined us too and we watched the end of it together and then went for a walk through town. We first went under Tampa, the 900-m tall mountain separating the old from the new Brasov. From the promenade just outside the city wall we had a good view of the city. We then walked through “Poarta Schei” (Schei Gate) and passed the “Biserica Neagra” (Black Church). The Black Church is the symbol of Brasov and was built in 1477, when it replaced an older church. It acquired its name after being blackened by smoke from the 1689 great fire. It is the largest Gothic style church in Southeastern Europe. Originally, the Black Church was a Catholic one (named Church of Saint Mary), but the Catholic services were replaced with Lutheran ones during the Protestant Reformation in Transylvania. This Reformation was conducted by Johannes Honterus, whose statue stands next to the church. The German school and college right next to the Black Church are also named after him (Cecilia attended school here). The Black Church has a six ton bell, the biggest in Romania, an impressive 4,000 pipe organ built in 1839 which is played during weekly concerts, as well as a rich collection of Persian carpets donated in the Middle Ages by Transylvanian Saxon merchants. We then passed through “Piata Sfatului”, the main square of the city and went up to “Cetatuia Brasov” (Brasov Citadel Fortress). After lunch we had a drink in the afternoon sun on “Republicii”, the pedestrian street lined with shops and terraces in the middle. Later we visited some friends and had a yummy dinner with Cecilia’s parents.

The next day we spent visiting fortresses around Brasov and met up with friends in the evening. On our last day in Brasov, we still visited a few things in the Schei part of town. Once Brașov became a German colony in the Middle Ages, Romanians were denied several privileges by the new German settlers. They were no longer recognized as citizens of the city, and as such they were no longer able to continue to practice their crafts and operate their businesses. Therefore, they built their town, “Schei” just outside the city wall. They were allowed to come to trade on market days by paying a toll when passing through the city gates. We visited Biserica Sf. Nicolae (St. Nicholas Church) a Romanian Orthodox church dating back to the 14th century. Next to it is the First Romanian School which also contains the first Romanian printing press along with the first book printed in the Romanian language. Brasov is also notable for being the birthplace of the national anthem of Romania written and sung during the 1848 Revolution.

The old town is nice and medieval, but Brasov also has a more modern side. Industrialization was accelerated in the Communist era, with special emphasis being placed on heavy industry, attracting many workers from other parts of the country. Brașov is still a site for manufacturing trucks, agricultural tractors and machinery, hydraulic transmissions, auto parts, helicopters, building materials, tools, furniture, textiles, shoes, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. There is also a chocolate factory and a large brewery (Ciucas).

Brasov holds a special place in Cecilia’s heart, so she was very happy to be back there even if only for 3 days.